Nail the new joist to the existing joist with two rows of 10d to 16d nails spaced 6 in.
Add joists between existing floor joists.
It s kind of old school.
I would use construction adhesive on top of the joist to assure a gapless connection.
While it is a good idea to replace rotted material with 2x8s it may require some notching to fit between the sub floor and ledger board.
And i d like to know if i rip some inch plywood and sister it up against the 2x6s and glue and screw it if that would be sufficient.
Use a sledgehammer or a pry bar to force the bottom of the new joist along the mudsill and center support beam of the floor system or the opposite mudsill on short spans until it s flat against the existing joist.
Trex needs 12 to 16 between joists.
The adhesive strengthens the bond between the existing joist and its sister and it prevents the two boards from squeaking as they move.
Driving 16d common nails in old hard wood is difficult.
My crawlspace has six vents under the floor and i want to seal them up.
If there is rot in the existing framing you re better off to start from scratch with all new materials.
Worse if a gap exists between joist and subfloor the floor may still flex.
This solution doesn t make the floor as stiff as the other solutions but since it s relatively easy and inexpensive you might want to try it first.
Measure the width and length of the existing joist.
If the overall structure of the deck is still in good shape then yes you can add new joists between the existing.
Most new construction uses 2 by 8 lumber for joists although 2 by 6.
If you add joists between existing joists you have to make sure you get a good connection between the joist and subfloor or squeaking may result.
The problem is that the existing joists are 19 apart.
6 lift a sister joist into position.
Close up of the far end resting probably 8 on the ledger or what ever it s called.
My plan is to add 2x8 joist in between the existing joist for a total of 4 additional joist.
But it s usually best to run the sister joist over the entire span.
Of the existing joist.
Purchase the type of lumber that matches the width of the existing joist.
Even if your joists already have a row of bridging at the center of the span adding a row on each side of the existing bridging will stiffen the floor.
I read it doesn t need cross ventilation.
This is the end that meets the existing house and is kind of poorly secured in my opionion.
When the sagging joists are level apply a generous bead of construction adhesive to the existing joist.
